Architecture

Captain Jonathan Hodges House, Salem, Massachusetts

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The house at 12 Chestnut Street in Salem, probably around 1890-1910. Image courtesy of the Phillips Library at the Peabody Essex Museum, Frank Cousins Glass Plate Negatives Collection.

The house in 2023:

This house was built around 1804 as the home of Captain Jonathan Hodges, his wife Mary, and their six children. Hodges was a merchant, and the early 19th century was the height of Salem’s prosperity as a seaport. During that time, this area around Chestnut Street was developed as a fashionable residential area for the city’s merchants and other wealthy residents. Many in the neighborhood were designed by architect Samuel McIntire, including this one, although this is the only house on Chestnut Street itself that is documented to McIntire.

It was originally built as a two-family home, and from 1805 to 1811 the Hodges family shared it with Jonathan Hodges’s former apprentice, Nathaniel Bowditch. As a boy in the 1780s, Bowditch had been indentured to Ropes & Hodges Chandlery, where he gained experience in bookkeeping. He later taught himself algebra and calculus, sailed as a ship’s clerk and later as a captain, and eventually published his famous book, Bowditch’s American Practical Navigator. By the time he moved into this house he was about 32 years old, and was married to his second wife Mary. They had an infant son, Nathaniel Ingersoll Bowditch, and over the years they would have seven more children.

The Bowditch family eventually moved to a different house, but Hodges remained here for the rest of his life. In 1829 he sold the house to his niece, Sally F. Orne, but eh continued to live here until his death in 1837. According to the house’s MACRIS documentation, subsequent 19th an early 20th century owners included Jonathan Willard Peele, Nathan Nichols, and Emily C. F. West. Emily West owned the house when the top photo was taken around the turn of the 20th century, and it remained in her family until 1941.

Today, more than a century after the top photo was taken, not much has changed in the exterior appearance of this house or the surrounding streetscape. Even the tree on the far left side of the photo is still there from the top photo, standing in front of the adjacent John C. Lee house. Overall, the house survives as a good example of early 19th century Federal-style architecture, and along with the rest of the street it is now part of the Chestnut Street District, which was added to the National Register of Historic Places in 1973.

John Dickinson House, Hatfield, Massachusetts

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The house at the corner of South Street and Bridge Lane in Hatfield, in April 1934. Image taken by Arthur C. Haskell. Library of Congress, Historic American Buildings Survey Collection.

The house in 2024:

This house, which is also referred to in some sources as the Morton House, was built around 1762 by John Dickinson. It is a saltbox-style house, with a second story on the front part of the house and a long, sloping roof in the back. This design was typical for mid-18th century homes in the Connecticut River valley, and the large center chimney was also a common feature from homes of this period. However, this house is probably best known for its elaborate front doorway. Such doorways were often found on higher-end homes in the valley during the mid-18th century, although this one is unusual because it is topped by a rounded pediment, rather than the more common flat-top or scroll pediments.

During the 19th century, the house was owned by the Morton family, with the 1873 county atlas showing an M. Morton here. By the time the top photo was taken in 1934, it was owned by Eugene E. Jubenville. The photo was part of the Historic American Buildings Survey documentation of the house, which also included a series of architectural drawings of the interior. By this point, the exterior of the house had undergone some changes, including the installation of exterior shutters and 2-over-2 windows, but overall it retained much of its 18th century form, including its distinctive doorway.

Today, the house is still standing here, as shown in the second photo. There have been some changes, including the loss of the outbuildings and barns behind the house, but otherwise the house itself has seen few changes. In some ways, it even looks more true to its historic appearance now than it did in 1934, due to the removal of the shutters and the installation of 18th century-style 12-over-12 windows. The ornate doorway is also still there, although it is now hidden from this angle by the large hydrangea bush. This plant must be around 100 years old now, because it is also visible in the 1934 photo, back when it was much smaller.

David Billings House, Hatfield, Massachusetts

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The house at 18 Main Street in Hatfield, Massachusetts, in 1938. Image taken by Arthur C. Haskell. Library of Congress, Historic American Buildings Survey Collection.

The house in 2024:

This house was built in 1783 as the home of Lieutenant David Billings (1731-1807). It stands on the east side of Main Street, between the street and the Connecticut River, with a lot that originally extended all the way back to the river. The house remained in the Billings family for many years, and subsequent owners included his grand nephew Joseph Dickinson Billings (1813-1882), and then by Joseph’s daughter Mary Billings Dickinson (1843-1922). It is an excellent example of an early Federal-style house, and in 1910 the A History of Hatfield, Massachusetts noted that [t]he house has the same appearance as of old, having been kept in excellent repair.”

The top photo was taken in 1938, as part of the Historic American Buildings Survey (HABS). This federal program involved documenting historic architecture across the country, and this house was one of several here in Hatfield that were included. At the time, the house still retained its original exterior appearance, but later in the 20th century it was altered with the installation of modern materials, including aluminum siding. However, the exterior has since been restored, and it now much more closely resembles its original appearance when compared to how it looked a few years ago.

First Church, Mount Washington, Massachusetts

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The First Church of Christ in Mount Washington, Massachusetts, at the corner of East Street and Cross Road around 1893. Image from Picturesque Berkshire (1893).

The scene in 2024:

Throughout its history, the town of Mount Washington has been one of the smallest communities in the state in terms of population. It is located in the midst of the Taconic Mountains in the southwestern corner of the state, with only a few roads leading out of the town. This isolation, combined with its mountainous terrain, limited development in the town, and it never grew much larger than a few hundred residents.

Unusual for Massachusetts communities is the fact that, for many years, the town lacked an organized church. Although settled by colonists around the 1750s, and incorporated as a town in 1779, Mount Washington would not have its own church building until 1869, when this Carpenter Gothic style building was built at the corner of East Street and Cross Road. This site is the de facto town center, since town hall is also located here. The current town hall building was constructed in 1855, and it stands in the distance beyond the church in both photos. Otherwise, though, the development here consists of houses that are scattered along the roads that radiate outward from here.

The church was dedicated on November 24, 1869. The following week’s Pittsfield Sun provided a short description of the event:

The new Union Evangelical Church at Mount Washington, just completed at a cost of $2700, by the efforts of the surrounding churches in the south part of the county, was dedicated on Wednesday of last week. The sermon was preached by Rev. Dr. Gale of Lee, and prayer offered by Rev. Mr. Phelps of Egremont. Nearly the entire population of the town were present, most of them coming in sleighs. The meeting house stands at the base of Taconic Dome, and is a gem among the mountains.

The town’s population stood at about 250 people at the time, and it would see some growth over the next few decades, eventually reaching over 400 by the time the top photo was taken in the early 1890s. However, the town’s population experienced a precipitous decline in the early 20th century. The lowest recorded population in Mount Washington was just 34 people, in both the 1950 and 1960 censuses. Since then, the population has grown, but it remains low compared to its 19th century figures, with 160 residents as of 2020.

Due to the lack of growth in the town, not much has changed in this scene since the top photo was taken more than 130 years ago. The church still stands, and it is home to an active congregation, and the town hall in the distance likewise remains in use.

Town Center, Montgomery, Massachusetts

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The town center on Main Road in Montgomery, Massachusetts, around 1892. Image from Picturesque Hampden (1892).

The scene in 2024:

Throughout its history, Montgomery has been one of the smallest towns in Hampden County, with a population that has never even reached 900 at any point. It is nestled in the hills to the northwest of Westfield, and it was first settled b European colonists around the 1760s, before becoming an incorporated town in 1780. Its population fluctuated during the 19th century, reaching as high as 740 by 1840, before plummeting to 393 a decade later. It steadily diminished in population over the next century, reaching as low as 141 in 1930 before seeing steady population growth during the second half of the 20th century. Nonetheless, the town remains small and rural, as shown in these two photos.

This site is usually referred to as the town center, mainly because it is the site of the meeting house and the town hall. However, this was never a true village or population center, as historically the town’s development consisted primarily of farms that were scattered across the landscape. But, because this spot is near the geographic center of the town, it was a logical place to gather for church services and town meetings

The town center consists of three Greek Revival-style buildings, as shown in the top photo. On the right side is the Montgomery Community Church, which appears to have been built in 1848 on the site of an earlier 1797 meeting house. The property had been owned by the town until 1848, when a new town hall was built immediately to the west of it, as shown in the distance to the left of the church in the top photo. The old meeting house was then sold to the town’s Congregational church, which subsequently built the current Greek Revival structure. A year later, in 1849, the town’s Methodist society constructed their own church building across the street, as shown on the left side of the scene.

Despite this late 1840s construction boom here in the town center, the town’s population was by this point on a downward trend. The 1850 census showed 393 inhabitants, and it would continue to decline for many decades afterwards. Both churches struggled to sustain themselves, with the Methodists only holding services in the summer and fall. The Congregational church eventually closed in the late 1860s, and the building was later used by a Second Adventist group.

By the time the top photo was taken around the early 1890s, the town’s population had dropped to under 300 residents. All three of the buildings from the 1840s were still standing here, and they were joined by a carriage shed, which was built around 1890 in the distant center of the scene.

Today, more than 130 years after the top photo was taken, not much has changed in this scene. The landscape is more forested, making it difficult to get the exact same angle as the top photo. The trees also hide the buildings on the right, but they are still standing, although their uses have changed over time. On the left side, the former Methodist church is now the town hall, and it has been expanded to include space for the town offices, library, and senior center. On the right side, the old town hall is now the historical society, and the former congregational church is now the Montgomery Community Church. The late 19th century carriage shed is also still standing, and collectively these buildings stand as a well-preserved example of a rural town center.

Church and Academy, West Granville, Massachusetts

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The Second Congregational Church and the West Granville Academy at the corner of Main Road and Beech Hill Road in Granville, around 1892. Image from Picturesque Hampden (1892).

The scene in 2024:

These two photos show the church and school in the village of West Granville. The town of Granville was incorporated in 1754, and it originally included the modern-day town of Tolland, which is located immediately to the west. Geographically, it is a large town, and even more so in the 18th century, when the combined area of modern Granville and Tolland was over 70 square miles. It was also one of the largest towns in Western Massachusetts in terms of population; during the first federal census in 1790, it had 1,979 residents, making it the seventh-largest town in the region, ranking higher than places like Springfield and Northampton. A decade later, the population had risen to 2,309, which was the third-highest in Western Massachusetts, behind only West Springfield and Springfield.

Because of the geographic size and population growth of the town, it soon led to the need for more than one meeting house. The original meeting house was located at the main village in the eastern part of the town, but in 1778 a second meeting house was built here in the western part of the town, as shown on the left side of these photos. At the time, it was known as the Middle Parish, because Tolland was at the time the western part of Granville, but it later came to be known as the West Parish after Tolland became a separate town.

The building is perhaps best known for its association with the Rev. Lemuel Haynes, the first ordained black minister in the United States. He was born in 1753 to a white mother and black father, and they were evidently unwilling or unable to raise him, because when he was five months old he was indentured to David Rose, a resident of Granville. Haynes grew up in the town, and he remained here after the end of his term of indenture at the age of 21. He went on to serve in the American Revolution, and he also developed a talent for preaching.

In 1780, Haynes was licensed to preach. Then, when the the church here at Middle Granville was formally organized in 1781, Haynes was invited to serve as the supply pastor, acting in an interim role in the absence of a permanent minister. He remained in this role for four years, until he was formally ordained in 1785. Newspaper accounts of the event indicate that his ordination occurred in Granville, but they do not specify which meeting house, although the event likely occurred here in this building. Haynes subsequently became the pastor of the church in Torrington, Connecticut, before moving to West Rutland, Vermont and then South Granville, New York, where he preached until his death in 1833.

In the meantime, the meeting house here in West Granville underwent some changes during the 19th century. According to the building’s MACRIS inventory form, the projecting front part of the building, with the three doorways, was probably added around 1837, while the Gothic-style details were added later in the 19th century. The Gothic style is evident in the four small spires atop the tower, along with the pilasters on the front corners of the building.

The smaller building just to the right of the meeting house is West Granville Academy, which was built in 1837. At the time, public high schools were rare, and instead many towns had private academies instead. Here at West Granville, tuition cost around $3.00 to $4.00 per term, plus $1.50 per week for board. The school attracted not only students from Granville, but also from other communities in the region. Among the teachers here was Russell H. Conwell from the town of Worthington. He taught here around 1863, and he later went on to become the founder and first president of Temple University. The academy closed later in the 19th century, as public high schools and larger private academies became more prevalent, and the building was subsequently acquired by the church for use as a parish hall.

The top photo was taken around the early 1890s, showing the view of the meeting house and academy building from the south. By this point Granville was, like most of the other rural hilltowns of Western Massachusetts, in the midst of many years of population decline. These towns generally followed a similar trend of rapid population growth in the late 18th and early 19th centuries, followed by a slow but steady decrease in population in the mid to late 19th century, as new generations of residents moved to industrial cities for greater opportunities, or moved westward to more productive farmland. After the separation of Tolland from Granville in 1810, Granville’s population reached as high as 1,649 residents in 1830. However, this number dropped to 1,061 by 1890, and would reach as low as 655 by 1920.

Granville would again see population growth in the post-World War II era, as widespread car ownership made it more practical to live in rural towns and commute to cities for work. However, with 1,538 residents as of 2020, the town is still smaller now than it was two centuries ago.

As a result, Granville retains much of its historic rural character, including the meeting house and old academy building here in West Granville. As shown in the bottom photo, both buildings are still standing. The academy is essentially unchanged on the exterior, while the meeting house has seen only minimal changes, primarily the removal of the Gothic pilasters on the corners, which were evidently taken down around the 1970s or 1980s. It stands as one of the oldest surviving church buildings in Western Massachusetts, and both the meeting house and the academy are part of the West Granville Historic District, which was added to the National Register of Historic Places in 1991.