Gothic Revival

First Church, Mount Washington, Massachusetts

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The First Church of Christ in Mount Washington, Massachusetts, at the corner of East Street and Cross Road around 1893. Image from Picturesque Berkshire (1893).

The scene in 2024:

Throughout its history, the town of Mount Washington has been one of the smallest communities in the state in terms of population. It is located in the midst of the Taconic Mountains in the southwestern corner of the state, with only a few roads leading out of the town. This isolation, combined with its mountainous terrain, limited development in the town, and it never grew much larger than a few hundred residents.

Unusual for Massachusetts communities is the fact that, for many years, the town lacked an organized church. Although settled by colonists around the 1750s, and incorporated as a town in 1779, Mount Washington would not have its own church building until 1869, when this Carpenter Gothic style building was built at the corner of East Street and Cross Road. This site is the de facto town center, since town hall is also located here. The current town hall building was constructed in 1855, and it stands in the distance beyond the church in both photos. Otherwise, though, the development here consists of houses that are scattered along the roads that radiate outward from here.

The church was dedicated on November 24, 1869. The following week’s Pittsfield Sun provided a short description of the event:

The new Union Evangelical Church at Mount Washington, just completed at a cost of $2700, by the efforts of the surrounding churches in the south part of the county, was dedicated on Wednesday of last week. The sermon was preached by Rev. Dr. Gale of Lee, and prayer offered by Rev. Mr. Phelps of Egremont. Nearly the entire population of the town were present, most of them coming in sleighs. The meeting house stands at the base of Taconic Dome, and is a gem among the mountains.

The town’s population stood at about 250 people at the time, and it would see some growth over the next few decades, eventually reaching over 400 by the time the top photo was taken in the early 1890s. However, the town’s population experienced a precipitous decline in the early 20th century. The lowest recorded population in Mount Washington was just 34 people, in both the 1950 and 1960 censuses. Since then, the population has grown, but it remains low compared to its 19th century figures, with 160 residents as of 2020.

Due to the lack of growth in the town, not much has changed in this scene since the top photo was taken more than 130 years ago. The church still stands, and it is home to an active congregation, and the town hall in the distance likewise remains in use.

Church and Academy, West Granville, Massachusetts

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The Second Congregational Church and the West Granville Academy at the corner of Main Road and Beech Hill Road in Granville, around 1892. Image from Picturesque Hampden (1892).

The scene in 2024:

These two photos show the church and school in the village of West Granville. The town of Granville was incorporated in 1754, and it originally included the modern-day town of Tolland, which is located immediately to the west. Geographically, it is a large town, and even more so in the 18th century, when the combined area of modern Granville and Tolland was over 70 square miles. It was also one of the largest towns in Western Massachusetts in terms of population; during the first federal census in 1790, it had 1,979 residents, making it the seventh-largest town in the region, ranking higher than places like Springfield and Northampton. A decade later, the population had risen to 2,309, which was the third-highest in Western Massachusetts, behind only West Springfield and Springfield.

Because of the geographic size and population growth of the town, it soon led to the need for more than one meeting house. The original meeting house was located at the main village in the eastern part of the town, but in 1778 a second meeting house was built here in the western part of the town, as shown on the left side of these photos. At the time, it was known as the Middle Parish, because Tolland was at the time the western part of Granville, but it later came to be known as the West Parish after Tolland became a separate town.

The building is perhaps best known for its association with the Rev. Lemuel Haynes, the first ordained black minister in the United States. He was born in 1753 to a white mother and black father, and they were evidently unwilling or unable to raise him, because when he was five months old he was indentured to David Rose, a resident of Granville. Haynes grew up in the town, and he remained here after the end of his term of indenture at the age of 21. He went on to serve in the American Revolution, and he also developed a talent for preaching.

In 1780, Haynes was licensed to preach. Then, when the the church here at Middle Granville was formally organized in 1781, Haynes was invited to serve as the supply pastor, acting in an interim role in the absence of a permanent minister. He remained in this role for four years, until he was formally ordained in 1785. Newspaper accounts of the event indicate that his ordination occurred in Granville, but they do not specify which meeting house, although the event likely occurred here in this building. Haynes subsequently became the pastor of the church in Torrington, Connecticut, before moving to West Rutland, Vermont and then South Granville, New York, where he preached until his death in 1833.

In the meantime, the meeting house here in West Granville underwent some changes during the 19th century. According to the building’s MACRIS inventory form, the projecting front part of the building, with the three doorways, was probably added around 1837, while the Gothic-style details were added later in the 19th century. The Gothic style is evident in the four small spires atop the tower, along with the pilasters on the front corners of the building.

The smaller building just to the right of the meeting house is West Granville Academy, which was built in 1837. At the time, public high schools were rare, and instead many towns had private academies instead. Here at West Granville, tuition cost around $3.00 to $4.00 per term, plus $1.50 per week for board. The school attracted not only students from Granville, but also from other communities in the region. Among the teachers here was Russell H. Conwell from the town of Worthington. He taught here around 1863, and he later went on to become the founder and first president of Temple University. The academy closed later in the 19th century, as public high schools and larger private academies became more prevalent, and the building was subsequently acquired by the church for use as a parish hall.

The top photo was taken around the early 1890s, showing the view of the meeting house and academy building from the south. By this point Granville was, like most of the other rural hilltowns of Western Massachusetts, in the midst of many years of population decline. These towns generally followed a similar trend of rapid population growth in the late 18th and early 19th centuries, followed by a slow but steady decrease in population in the mid to late 19th century, as new generations of residents moved to industrial cities for greater opportunities, or moved westward to more productive farmland. After the separation of Tolland from Granville in 1810, Granville’s population reached as high as 1,649 residents in 1830. However, this number dropped to 1,061 by 1890, and would reach as low as 655 by 1920.

Granville would again see population growth in the post-World War II era, as widespread car ownership made it more practical to live in rural towns and commute to cities for work. However, with 1,538 residents as of 2020, the town is still smaller now than it was two centuries ago.

As a result, Granville retains much of its historic rural character, including the meeting house and old academy building here in West Granville. As shown in the bottom photo, both buildings are still standing. The academy is essentially unchanged on the exterior, while the meeting house has seen only minimal changes, primarily the removal of the Gothic pilasters on the corners, which were evidently taken down around the 1970s or 1980s. It stands as one of the oldest surviving church buildings in Western Massachusetts, and both the meeting house and the academy are part of the West Granville Historic District, which was added to the National Register of Historic Places in 1991.

Bigelow Chapel, Watertown, Mass (2)

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The Bigelow Chapel at Mount Auburn Cemetery in Watertown, around 1865-1885. Image courtesy of the New York Public Library.

The chapel in 2021:

These two photos show a closer view of the Bigelow Chapel, which was featured in the previous post. The Gothic Revival-style chapel was originally built in 1846, and it was designed by noted architect Gridley J. F. Bryant, along with one of the founders of Mount Auburn Cemetery, Dr. Jacob Bigelow. However, while the design was sound, the construction work was shoddy, including the use of poor-quality stone. As a result, the chapel was in danger of collapse within less than a decade, and had to be deconstructed and rebuilt.

This work was completed in 1856, and the first photo was taken around a decade or two later. The building would continue to be used as the cemetery’s chapel until 1898, when a larger one was built near the entrance to the cemetery. The old chapel then became the first crematorium in the state, and over the years the interior was renovated several times, although the exterior has remained well-preserved in its original appearance.

In 1936, the old chapel was named in honor of Dr. Bigelow, and in 1970 it was expanded with a new wing, which now houses the crematorium. The newer chapel, now named the Story Chapel, remains the primary chapel here at Mount Auburn, although the Bigelow Chapel is still used as a meeting space for a variety of events.

Bigelow Chapel, Watertown, Mass

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The Bigelow Chapel at Mount Auburn Cemetery in Watertown, around 1865-1885. Image courtesy of the New York Public Library.

The scene in 2021:

As explained in an earlier post, Mount Auburn Cemetery was established in 1831 as an alternative to the small, overcrowded colonial-era burial grounds in the center of Boston. By contrast, Mount Auburn cemetery was to feature winding paths, careful landscaping, and other features that made it not only a quiet final resting place for the dead, but also a pleasant place for the living to visit.

One of the leading figures in creating and subsequently managing the cemetery was Dr. Jacob Bigelow, a physician from Boston. He was involved in the cemetery throughout its early history, including the process of designing and building a chapel here in the cemetery. Working with noted architect Gridley J. F. Bryant, Dr. Bigelow helped to design the chapel. It featured a Gothic Revival design, which was particularly popular for churches and public buildings during this period, and it was completed in 1846.

However, problems soon emerged with the chapel. The contractors had submitted a bid of $19,623 for the project, but they evidently discovered, partway through construction, that this was too low. As a result, they hired less reputable subcontractors to do some of the work, with predictable results. The most significant problem was with the stonework. They used many poor-quality stones, and many of these were not cut to the proper dimensions, which allowed water to enter between the stones. Repeated freeze-thaw cycles in the winter months soon resulted in cracks in the stones, which threatened the structural integrity of the chapel.

To fix the problem, the building had to be demolished and reconstructed, with new stones to replace the defective ones. The work was completed in 1856, resulting in a building that looked essentially the same as the original one. The first photo was probably taken within a decade or two after this, showing a large gathering in front of the main entrance to the chapel.  It would remain in use as the cemetery’s chapel until 1898, when a larger one, which was later named the Story Chapel, opened at the main entrance to the cemetery.

The older chapel, which was formally named in honor of Jacob Bigelow in 1936, then became a crematorium. It was the first of its kind in the state, and is first cremation was in 1900. Since then, the interior has been significantly renovated several times, and the building was expanded with an addition in 1970. This wing now houses the crematorium, and the old chapel continues to be used as a meeting space for various events. Overall, despite these many changes, the view of the chapel from this angle has remained largely unchanged since the first photo was taken, and it stands as an excellent example of Gothic Revival architecture.

Jayne Building, Philadelphia, Pennsylvania

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Looking west on Chestnut Street between Bank and Third Streets in Philadelphia, around 1859. Image courtesy of the Library Company of Philadelphia, Frederick De Bourg Richards Photograph Collection.

The scene in 2019:

The first photo shows the view looking west along the south side of Chestnut Street, from near the corner of Bank Street. The scene features a variety of commercial buildings, but the most prominent of these is the Jayne Building in the center of the photo. Built between 1849 and 1851, this eight-story building was far ahead of its time, predating the advent of modern skyscrapers by nearly half a century. As such, it is generally considered to be the first skyscraper in the city, and arguably the first in the entire country as well.

The Jayne Building was designed by local architect William L. Johnston, and it featured a Gothic Revival exterior of Quincy granite. In contrast to most of the neighboring buildings, its façade featured strong vertical lines that emphasized its height, a technique that would later become common for 20th century skyscrapers. However, the building also featured a two-story crenelated tower atop the roof, giving it an unusual combination of modern and medieval-style architecture.

The building was owned by Dr. David Jayne, a physician who made his fortune selling patent medicines. Although based in Philadelphia, he sold his products across the country. He even published a free almanac that was replete with medical advice, most of which involved taking one or more of his products. Among these were the Expectorant, which was intended for lung diseases, and the Alterative, which Jayne claimed could treat a wide range of ailments, including cancer, gout, rheumatism, scrofula, scurvy, syphilis, ulcers, and various skin disorders.

Architect William L. Johnston provided much of the vision for Jayne’s building, but he did not live to see it completed. He died of tuberculosis during the early stages of the construction, and another Philadelphia architect, Thomas Ustick Walter, oversaw the rest of the work. Walter also designed two six-story wings, one on either side of the main building, which were completed in 1851 and are visible here in the first photo. Also in 1851, Walter was appointed as Architect of the Capitol, and in this capacity he designed both the House and Senate wings of the US Capitol, along with the current Capitol dome.

David Jayne died in 1866 at the age of 66, but his family carried on the business for many years. However, just six years later this building was gutted by a massive fire on the night of March 4, 1872. The fire started around 9:00 p.m. in the rear of the third floor, but it soon spread up to the top of the building. Firefighting efforts were hampered by the height of the building, and also by the sub-zero temperatures, which caused the water to freeze into icicles on the exterior. However, firefighters succeeded in preventing the flames from spreading to the six-story wings, and most of the exterior walls remained standing, despite extensive damage to the interior.

The building was subsequently reconstructed around the old walls, albeit without the ornate two-story tower atop the roof. It would remain here for the next 80 years, but by the mid-20th century it was threatened by an urban renewal project related to the Independence National Historical Park. Planners envisioned a park area that would feature the city’s prominent Revolutionary-era landmarks surrounded by open space, rather than being crowded by more recent development. This meant the demolition of many 19th century buildings that, despite their architectural and historic significance, were not a part of the park’s mission.

In the case of the Jayne Building, it stood on the periphery of the park, three blocks away from Independence Hall. The mid-19th century proto-skyscraper clearly had no connection to the American Revolution, but some preservationists made an effort to have the building spared. Among these was Charles E. Peterson, who in 1951 published a theory that the Jayne Building had likely helped to influence the design of more modern skyscrapers, since prominent architect Louis Sullivan had once worked out of an office across the street from here. However, this appeal failed to convince the park planners to save the building, and it was ultimately demolished in the fall of 1957.

Today, more than 160 years after the first photo was taken, there are no surviving landmarks from the first photo. Many of the older commercial buildings were likely replaced by newer buildings later in the 19th century, but anything that was still standing by the 1950s would have, like the Jayne Building, been demolished as part of the Independence National Historical Park. Here in the foreground, where the Jayne Building once stood, this site became a visitors center. This building was, in turn, demolished in 2014, and the site is currently occupied by the Museum of the American Revolution, which is shown here in the 2019 photo.

Memorial Hall, Monson, Mass

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Memorial Hall on Main Street in Monson, around 1892. Image from Picturesque Hampden (1892).

The scene in 2020:

One of the most architecturally-impressive buildings in Monson is Memorial Hall, which was completed in 1885 as a town hall and a memorial to the town’s residents who served in the Civil War. Prior to this time, Monson did not have a purpose-built town hall; instead, town meetings were held at the First Church and the Methodist Church. It was at one of these town meetings, in 1883, that Rice M. Reynolds offered to donate land and money to help construct a new town hall. Together with his brother Theodore and their father, prominent local industrialist Joseph L. Reynolds, the family gave $17,000 towards the project, with the town covering the remaining $42,000 in construction costs.

The late 19th century was the heyday for Civil War monuments in New England, and almost every city or town had at least one to recognize its residents who fought for the Union. Here in Monson, the town had two major memorials. The first of these was the Soldiers’ Monument in front of the First Church, which was donated by Cyrus W. Holmes and dedicated in 1884. Memorial Hall followed a year later, and together these two monuments honored the 155 Monson residents who served in the war. Of these, sixteen were killed in battle, and thirteen died of disease during the war.

Memorial Hall was designed by architect George E. Potter, and it was constructed with granite that was quarried in the town by the William N. Flynt Granite Company. It features a Gothic-inspired design with an asymmetrical main facade. On the left side, at the northwest corner of the building, is a 100-foot tower, and on the right, in the southwest corner, is a 45-foot turret that is topped by a statue of a soldier. Most Gothic and Romanesque-style public buildings of this era were built with multi-colored exteriors, using either contrasting light and dark bricks or sandstone. This was not as easy to do with gray granite blocks, but there are were some efforts to create contrast, particularly with the alternating light and dark stones in the arches above the doors.

On the interior, the largest space in the building was the auditorium on the first floor. It had a capacity of a thousand people, and could be used for town meetings and other civic events. The building also included offices for town officials such as the town clerk, the selectmen, the assessor, and the superintendent of schools. In the basement was the town lockup, along with utility and storage space, including the town safe.

The second floor was originally occupied by the Marcus Keep Post of the Grand Army of the Republic. The GAR was a prominent and politically-powerful fraternal organization in the North during the late 19th century, and its membership was comprised exclusively of Union veterans of the Civil War. Here in Monson, the local chapter of the organization was named for Marcus Keep, a town resident who died from infection in 1864 after being wounded in the leg during a skirmish in Virginia. Along with the regular GAR post, the second floor space was also used by the Woman’s Relief Corps and the Sons of Veterans, the two main auxiliary organizations of the GAR.

Memorial Hall was completed in mid-1885, and the first public event to be held here was, appropriately enough, a service in memory of Ulysses S. Grant, who had died on July 23. Then, on August 15, the building was formally presented to the town at the first official town meeting here in Memorial Hall. The occasion was marked with little ceremony, and only about 50 voters attended the meeting. Rice M. Reynolds spoke on the reason for its construction, and then the chairman of the building committee, Edward D. Cushman, presented it to the voters, who accepted it.

The first photo was taken less than a decade after the building opened. Since then, remarkably little has changed here in this scene. Memorial Hall continued to be used as the town hall until 1992, when the town offices moved a few blocks north to the old high school building at the corner of Main and State Streets. The town still owns Memorial Hall, though, and it is now used for concerts, plays, fairs, and other community events.

As shown in the present-day photo, the exterior has remained well-preserved throughout this time, and even the 19th century homes on either side of it are still standing, although the one on the left was significantly expanded around 1910. Because of its historic and architectural significance, Memorial Hall was added to the National Register of Historic Places in 1984, and in 1991 it became a part of the Monson Center Historic District, which is also listed on the National Register.